Travel

Visit to Seattle

Last week I had the opportunity to visit Seattle for the first time since I moved back east almost three years ago. Ostensibly this was a business trip, but that didn’t stop me from visiting with a lot of friends I hadn’t seen in ages.

First, I have to say that staying at the Washington Athletic Club made the trip quite a bit more enjoyable. I was a member of the WAC for almost four years, during which I played a lot of pool, but hardly ever used any of the athletic facilities. I also frequented their Wine Maker’s Dinners. The wine, fantastic dinners and shunning of athletic equipment no doubt explains my somewhat rounded appearance during my Seattle years.

I started every morning last week with a visit to The Crumpet Shop — just like I started nearly every morning for the four years I lived in the Pike Place Market. Seeing Gary & Nancy again was a real pleasure. In fact, Nancy looked right at me twice before she recognised me — I guess losing 50+ pounds has made me look a little different.

I was delighted to see that Nancy has hung up some of her paintings in the shop. She was just getting back into painting around the time I left, and this was the first time I’d been able to see her work. Otherwise, not much had changed at the Crumpet Shop, although the tea is now available in thermal juggy-things where the patrons can get at it without pestering the poor overworked crumpet slingers.

Way up north, on the edge of Seattle’s Gasworks Park, is Elemental @ Gasworks. Even if this weren’t the masterpiece of my friends Phred & Laurie, Elemental would be a really excellent restaurant. Laurie slaves away behind two portable gas burners while Phred entertains the guests.

I was fortunate enough to visit Elemental twice during my visit to Seattle. On the first visit, I enjoyed the Penn Cove Mussels prepared with honey, beer and jalapeños. The Semolina Crab Cake was also really tasty — even if Laurie was encountering some difficulty getting it to stay together. As my main course, I selected a moist filet of Halibut served with an incredibly rich risotto. Of course, Phred matched each course with a superb wine.

I started my second visit to Elemental with the Penn Cove Mussels again, however, this time Laurie prepared them with white wine, chorizo, sweet red peppers, jalapeños, and onions. I have to admit to liking this second preparation a bit better than the first, but both were really great. When Laurie told me about the main course, I expected the wing-nuts from PETA to storm the restaurant. Imagine a thick slice of meat loaf. Now imagine that same meat loaf made from foie gras, lamb and veal. Served on a slice of fresh rosemary bread with steamed green beans, it was simply heavenly. Once again, Phred selected excellent wines which complemented both the mussels and meat loaf, including a slightly spicy red with lots of flavour.

I disagree somewhat with Phred & Laurie’s stance that at Elemental, service is inclusive. That means you can’t leave a tip. If you pay with a credit card, they write in the total amount and write “Service Inclusive” in the tip box. And they don’t even look at the receipts to add in tips if you write one in. Of course, if you’re paying cash, you could always leave a bit extra and then race out of the restaurant. But then I’d expect Phred to come running out after you with your “change”.

Thursday evening, after work was complete, I headed down to southern Seattle for dinner at my buddy Robert “Bo” Bonina’s home. In addition to Bo’s long-term partner, Adriana, I also got to see my friend Dana who now owns her own restaurant out in West Seattle, where I hear she serves up tasty Italian fare. In addition to an extremely tasty Bordeaux, Bo shared with us two incredible Italian reds (and my inability to remember names means they’ll have to remain anonymous) that went very nicely with the pasta and steaks from one of the largest cows known to man. These steaks were huge. I asked Bo to only serve me half of one steak, and I still almost couldn’t finish.

I was also able to grab lunch at Matt’s in the Market — perhaps the best lunch counter you’ll ever encounter. Matt was just as busy as I’d remembered, and more importantly, the food was every bit as good as I recall. Although I passed on the wine (I’d been in oenologist’s heaven the night before at Bo’s and again that evening at Elemental), the chef, Eric, prepared a very tasty spicy pork soup followed by snapper served with a red mole sauce over red beans and rice. Of course, one of the best (or worst if you’re not into it) features of the counter at Matt’s is meeting new (and often weird) people. I happened to sit next to the chattiest woman who told me almost her entire life story when all I wanted to do was catch up with Matt, Eric and the rest of the gang.

Finally, the moment of reckoning: I stepped on the scale when I returned home to discover I’d acquired 4 lbs somewhere in my travels. Must have been that junk food I had in the Chicago airport…

Summer Vacation Ideas

We’re going on Summer Vacation with my high-school buddy, Bradley, and his wife, Erin. The goal is to do some hiking and explore the Green or White mountains just north of us. Of course, this plan may be slightly affected by our desire to get Anna knocked up.

Hiking: Inn to Inn — The Long Trail or Hiking Gourmet options, although expensive, sound cool. One of the inns, Judith’s Garden, was on Erin’s original list of things to do in VT.

Hut to Hut along the ATThe Appalachian Mountain Club, which we joined only the other day, maintains eight huts along the Appalachian Trail in New Hampshire’s White Mountains. Each hut is a day’s hike apart — covering a total distance of 56 miles. This sounds incredibly cool. They provide food and lodging leaving us to worry about packing water, clothes and minor other gear. We could easily stash a car at one end of the trail before the trip, and hike all the way across. Reservations are available. We should probably jump on this quickly if we’re interested. Of course, Anna points out that if she’s pregnant, some of the hikes might be too strenuous.

Inns and B&Bs in VT — There are tons of Inns and B&Bs in VT. We could probably plan our own “slackpacking” itinerary. However, the folks at WonderWalks offer lots of cool, if expensive, Inn-to-Inn walks. I doubt if we could actually afford any of these. But they certainly sound cool.

All of this is from a very brief google of `Net resources. I’ll check into back issues of Outside magazine and see what I can dig up.

Hiking the Appalachian Trail

Last night, Anna and I went down to the Reading REI store so I could attend a clinic on preparing to hike the Appalachian Trail. I haven’t entirely decided whether I really intend to hike the entire 2100 mile (give or take 100 miles depending on the year) trail from Georgia to Maine, but I’ve been kicking around the idea for some time now. This was my opportunity to chat with someone who has hiked the trail and learn a bit about what gear to bring and what not to bring.

I don’t know why it surprised me, but I didn’t really pick up any new information regarding gear. Although, Jerry (the guy giving the clinic) spoke up in enthusiastic support of trekking poles. I’ve never really considered using trekking poles before, well, that’s not entirely true. I’d considered them to be the kind of slightly sissy thing novice hikers and backpackers get talked into purchasing by some weaselly clerk looking to boost his commission. Not the sort of thing an experienced hiker like myself would ever need.

However, Jerry pointed out that trekking poles absorb quite a bit of the impact on your knees and help out tremendously while crossing streams and rocky terrain. I’m still not entirely convinced, but I’m definitely intrigued by anything that will spare my wounded knee even a small part of the stress of hiking 2100 miles.

Every journal I’d read regarding the trip has glossed over the cost of making the journey. This was the first time anyone had put an actual number on the adventure. Although cost is entirely relative to one’s personal preference, Jerry suggested the AT could be hiked for about $2 to $3 per mile. That’s $4,200 to $6,300 (for the arithmetically challenged among us). While that’s a sizeable amount of money, the thing he didn’t mention is loss of income.

Jerry took six months to hike the AT. According to the Appalachian Trail Conference, that’s about the average time to “through hike” the trail. Since that’s the average, that’s what I’ll use in my own planning.

Anna probably has a better sense of this than I do (because she’s Mistress of Finance in the Watkins household), but I suspect our recurring monthly expenses are somewhere in the range of $3,000. This means that in addition to the $6,300 for actually hiking the AT, I’ll need to have saved $18,000 just to maintain a home to come back to after 6 months on the trail.

Grand Total: $24,300.

That’s a lot of money.

Our Photos

These days all our photos are stored on Flickr. Pretty much just like everyone else. Our old photos are also still available.